Random Thoughts

I don't have much time to write a lot here as I've now joined up with the Greenforce expedition and we're on our way out to a remote island off Vanua Levu, the second biggest island in Fiji. Last week, Oli and I went out to the Yasawas, a set of beautiful islands off to the north west of Nadi. Travelling in a bright yellow (and unfortunately expensive) catermeran, we cruised past many beautiful islands to our first destination - Adi's Place - a friendly little hostel on the Waya island. While we only stayed here two nights, we enjoyed a trip to a waterfall (very refreshing), some good snorkling on the corel reef just off the bay and we partook in a kava ceremony both nights (at first you think it's just like muddy water but the taste grows on you).

The company was excellent - we made good friends with a German student called Michael, two Norwegian sisters and an Alaskan. This allowed for some very interesting after dinner conversations, particularly when a couple of Swedes arrived and started arguing with us over the state of the English football team!

Our second island was Nanyua Lailai, right at the top of the Yasawas group. Seaspray, the place we stayed at, was very basic - there wasn't even any running water. We didn't really do a lot here - mainly reading (I finished an 800 page book and a 400 page book within 3 days) and a bit of swimming. We walked over the island to the 'famous' Blue Lagoon but this proved to be disappointing - the coral reef was in a terrible condition. The food was good and our hosts very friendly but the highlight of this island was probably the little teashop just down the beach, where you could get a slice of chocolate cake and a mug of tea for only $3.

The journey back to Nadi was over 4 hours long and I came down a bit sick on the way back; not due to the boat but probably due to minor food poisoning or something, as two of the other people staying at Seaspray had come down with the same thing the night before. I wasn't actually sick but felt ill and went to bed early, thus it wasn't til the following morning that I met up with all the Greenforce people that had arrived in our absence.

Over the last few days we've got to know each other well and Oli and I have both made good friends with a lot of the people here. The staff are also very cool - all in their mid twenties and good fun. We're currenltly in Suva, the capital of Fiji, and tomorrow we go to take an overnight ferry up to SavuSavu on Vanua Levu. I've just bought a couple of Sulus (skirts basically - it's the traditional dress we need for our village trips) as well as an extremely loud shirt, but unfortunately I won't be able to post any more pictures til I get somewhere with a fast connection and plenty of time - probably around the end of March.

While I'm living on a remote island updating this blog will be tricky, although I will try to post some updates. For those of you with RSS readers, the site feed is http://www.nmjenkins.com/atom.xml - you can subscribe to this to be notified of updates.

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Well, it has been several days since I last posted an update and a lot has happened since. For a start, I am now 19. We left Nadi on my birthday and took the bus along the coast through rolling hills and fields of sugar cane to the small town/village of Cuvu (pronounced Doovoo). From there, a taxi took us over several kilometers of rough, unmettled track to reach Namuka Bay Lagoon.

Upon arrival, the first word to grace the lips of both Oli and myself was, "Wow!" We were greeted in the largest of the four traditional, thatched wooden bures by Theresa our host/cook/guide. As we were currently the only guests at the resort, we were upgraded to our own small bure (we had booked our beds in the dorm), complete with ensuite facilities. Inside this, a double bed (which Oli immediately baggsied) and a single bed took up most of the space. The walls appeared to have been made by weaving supple branches together and the floor was covered by wicker mats and a carpet between the beds.

Outside, the sea lay 50m away down a grassy slope. A couple of hundred metres out to sea a constant wall of white borderd a darker blue beyond as the coral sheltering the lagoon dropped away to form a deep ocean beyond. Three hammocks lay strung between tall, wind-swept palm trees, one so battered it lay at almost 45 degrees to the ground. Two thatched shelters covered tables and benches upon which meals were served; the open sides of these allowed stunning views of the ocean, which stretched the full width of the horizon with not a spot of land in sight. A seemingly permanent breeze ensured the temperature was always pleasant and the crashing waves out at sea provided a constant background noise.

Over the first three days,in addition to lazing around reading in the hammocks, we managed to fit in the following activities:

• A nocturnal stroll through some nearby woods in hunt of crabs for tomorrow's dinner (while we saw their burrows and even spotted a few with their legs poking out we unfortunately didn't manage to catch any).
• Stargazing (no city lights to encumber the view)
• A visit to some ancestral caves, at the back of which a small hole hid the entrance to an astounding tunnel that passes under the sea for many miles, emerging on a distant island. Unfortunately, the journey takes three days and three nights in the pitch black and, although we had our head torches, we didn't have the provisions to attempt the journey. Shame.
• Snorkling over the coral reef - it wasn't in great condition but I still managed to spot several angel fish and small zebra-striped fish, as well as the odd sea cucumber and brightly coloured blue starfish.
• A walk through the local countryside to see some bats and also to sample freshly cut sugar cane and a coconut. This was poked down from the tree with a long stick then skillfully cut open with a machete by our guide, Nasim. After drinking the sweet milk from the centre, he split it open and scooped out the flesh for us to eat on the way back.

Although we were due to return to Nadi on Friday, we were easily convinced to stay another two days, especially given the wonderful food - all freshly prepared and in traditional Fijian, Cantonese and Indian style. The Indian curries with the flat,pan fried 'Roti' (a sort of bread) were a particular favourite, as was the Fijian dish of fish and vegtables served in a meaty white sauce with kasava (a dry, local root vegtable). As we needed to withdraw cash to pay for this, a day trip to the local town of Sigatoka was in order. As we were looking to save money, we walked the 50 minute route along a seldom used railroad to Cuvu and from there we caught the bus to Sigatoka for a dollar each. After replenishing our stocks of cash and purchasing two new books to read, we returned to Cuvu and walked back to Namuka Bay; by this time the sun was high overhead and the rain clouds that had threatened us earlier had moved inland - in hindsight I think the long-sleeved thermal base layer I wore that day was the wrong choice.

Today we returned to Nadi where we can do some much needed washing and recooperate from our 6 day period of, um, relaxation. We have already booked our next trip and on Wednesday we leave for the Yasawas, where we will spend 5 nights: 2 on one island and 3 on another, before returning to Nadi to meet up with the rest of our Greenforce group.

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We're off! Our departure form Heathrow was largely uneventful, with the exception of Oli attempting to take knife, fork, spoon and a small pair of scissors on to the plane with him. Being clearly terrorist items likely to cause death and destruction they were duely confiscated.

The first flight to L.A. was aboard a jumbo jet. We were seated at the front of the plane so were more or less first in line when the champagne (OK, sparkling wine) came round to celebrate the new year (British time). Quantities were disappointingly small, not helped by the fact that the steward managed to pour it not only into my glass but also on to my trousers. Given that it was not just the New Year but Oli's birthday as well, I collared the next passing flight attendant and requested more chanpagne. Unfortunately stocks of this had been depleted, so instead Oli sampled the delights of two New Zealand beers whilst I enjoyed my first Gin O'Clock of the year.

Arriving in L.A. we were fingerprinted and photographed like the terrorists we are before briefly exiting the terminal and breathing in a few breaths of night-time L.A. air. Then it was back on to a slightly smaller but wonderfully empty plane for a further eleven and a half hours in the air. As soon as the seat belt sign was switched off I nabbed a row of 3 seats across the centre of the plance and, armed with pillows and blankets, slept through most of the flight, although I awoke in time to enjoy the sparkling wine handed round for our second new year (American time).

On arrival in Fiji we were greeted by two loudly dressed Fijians playing two equally loud guitars and singing whay I can only presume were traditional Fijian songs. They were actually quite good and were a welcome, if some what bizarre, serenade as we waited to clear customer and immigration at 2am in the morning. Although our plane ticket out is dated the 30th of March, the visas we were issued are valid for only one month, but this should be easily extended once we meet up with the Greenforce people in a couple of weeks.

After a few hours kip at the Nadi Bay Hotel, we dicided to go and see what tNadi has to offer. By chance we met up with two lads who had been on our flight and we took the traditional Fijian bus (open sides, very old) for a bargain 50c (that's about 17p). Nadi itself is rather boring, consisting of only one main street of shops and some housing at the side. Walking along the road we were accosted by a very friendly Fijian who invited us in to his shop. Oli and George (one of our newfound friends) joined him for a traditional Kava ceremony whilst Ed (our other newfound friend) and I politely declined. Somewhat predictably, our visit there ended with the guy trying to force Oli and George to buy a lucky charm - asharks tooth necklace. George bought it, Oli managed to extricate himself from the situation.

Given the lack of 'things to do' in Nadi (both sides of the main road having been duely tramped) we returned to the hotel for lunch and spent the aftenoon lazing around and planning where to visit in the two weeks we have prior to our Greenforce expedition. A few nights by the Namuka Bay Lagoon followed by a cruise to the Yasawa Islands sounds tempting to me...

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